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Questions for a beginner bowhunter?

2,645 Views | 11 Replies | Last: 15 yr ago by rock08
Ag97
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So I think I've decided I would like to take up bow hunting. Hunting with a rifle is fun but there really isn't much of a challenge to it here in Texas. I'm going into this with little to no knowledge of what I will need and was hoping for a few pointers.

Is brand as important as the model?

Are accessories as important as the bow?

Can I get into a bow and most of it's components for <$500? If I do go the cheap route am I going to be happy with it or is it going to be so frustrating that I just go back to rifle hunting?

Is it worth buying used or are bows so personalized that it would be better to just buy new from the beginning and get everything that matches my preferences?

If used is an option, where is the best place to shop?

Thanks for any advice you guys can give.
Vero143
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Is brand as important as the model?

What feels right to you is most important, IMO. There are a lot of brands, designs, and accessories out there, so trying them out is a great way to see what you want/need. Go to a bow shop and give them feedback of what you are after and have them show you models in your budget. See what shoots most comfortable and go from there.

Are accessories as important as the bow?

I think so. A quality sight, arrows and rest are probably the most important to me. It is worth upgrading them to achieve your goals. Lots of us here can give you feedback on accessories to get.

Can I get into a bow and most of it's components for <$500? If I do go the cheap route am I going to be happy with it or is it going to be so frustrating that I just go back to rifle hunting?

Two routes to take. Find a bow and then trick it out yourself or buy a combo package. The first one will probably be more $$, but it is exactly what you want within your price range. Combo packages should be second choice behind customizing one with a real bow shop's help. A brief look at Cabelas.com shows about a dozen bow packages under $500 (I imagine Gander Mt. and Bass Pro have about that many as well). Dont buy one off reviews though, go shoot them all and see what you like. It will have the basics you need to shoot effectively and kill a deer. I would consider this second option though, with going to an archery shop being first. Much better service and they can fit to your needs. I introduced about 6 people last year to bowhunting. They all consider it fun and challenging when at the range (none have hunted yet). With proper instruction and practice, it is very enjoyable year round.

Is it worth buying used or are bows so personalized that it would be better to just buy new from the beginning and get everything that matches my preferences?

Sure. Just do some homework on the bow and make sure it is what you are looking for. If you buy a used bow, you might make a change here or there to fit you, but overall, the bow should be ready to go after some sight adjustments.

If used is an option, where is the best place to shop?

Archerytalk.com
southeasttexas.com
huntersfriend.com
Also call bow shops and see whay they have. I use Triple Edge Archery and Viking primarily.


[This message has been edited by Vero143 (edited 7/9/2010 1:14a).]
CT'97
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Welcome to the boshunting world, once you are hooked you probably won't want to pick up that rifle again.

Brand and models are a personal choice and the best option is to go try out a few and see what you like. I advise going to an archery shop and getting fitted so you know your draw length.

New or used is up to you. For starting out getting something new form a bow shop probably is best because they will get you set up right. That being said, I am currently shooting an Switchback XT that I bought used a year after it came out. There are a lot of people who have to have the newest bow out there and sell them just after bow season, so there are some deals to be had. A lot of times archery shops will have bows on consignment as well.

You can easily spend as much on accessories as you do on the bow. You don't have to and a simple prong rest, three pin sight, and a detachable quiver can be had for under $200.

Arrows are another place where an archery shop will be your best bet. Start out with half a dozen. They will be able to get you the right spine for your draw weight and draw length and cut them to weight and fletch them. Go with carbon fiber they are a little more expensive but will last longer.

You will also want a good release. There are a lot out there I prefer the Scott mongoose but there are many good brands and models, again try some out and see what you like.

As for your $500 budget, it's going to be hard to get started for that price. If you can find a good bow on consignment at an archery shop you might be able to do it.

Finally, get over to www.Texasbowhunter.com it is by far the source for information on bow hunting in general and specifically in Texas. There are a lot of local groups that get together and you can probably find someone in your area to help you get started.
35chililights
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From the FAQ.

http://www.texags.com/main/forum.reply.asp?topic_id=1470776&forum_id=34&page=&opt=post
Sean98
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I agree with a lot of what Geo/Vero/Fred said. But the great thing about accessories is that you can upgrade them a little bit year by year until you find what you want. You can go with a basic rest (Whisker Biskit), sight (TruGlo), arrows (something like Cabela's Hunters), release and quiver relatively inexpensive. While I'm all for tossing some business towards your local pro shop you can generally find accessories on eBay for much, MUCH cheaper than retail. Once you shoot those for a year or so you'll know what you like/don't like about your accessories and you can upgrade them a little at a time.

For example: My first bow (once I got back into bowhunting in 2004) was a PSE Fireflite33 combo from Cabelas. It ran ~$280 for the full package. It had a cheap TruGlo sight, metal stabilizer, two-prong fixed rest, etc. First thing I upgraded was the rest (to a Trophy Taker and then again to a QAD), then the stabilizer (to an NAP Shockblocker) then the sight (4 times total).

Finally after 4 years I upgraded the entire bow and the sight I use now retails for 70% of what I spent on the ENTIRE combo back in '04.

As for a bow, there really are no bad bows in this day & age. Sure, there are bows that some of us like better but those vary person to person.

As for getting in relatively cheap I stole this link off of a thread from yesterday (props to 35chililights). It's a really nice bow at a pretty good price brand new:

Diamond Justice for $299

Doesn't mean that's the right bow for you, but it is a good price for that bow.

[This message has been edited by Sean98 (edited 7/9/2010 9:55a).]
Ag97
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Ok, so I traded in my hotel points for about $500 in Cabela's Gift Cards today. I'll be heading to the Cabela's in Buda or the one North of Ft. Worth in the next few days to do some initial footwork. I've looked on the Cabela's website to see what kind of selection I'll be looking at and was wondering if they carry more brands and models than what they show on the website? Anybody have a couple of models they've seen at Cabela's over the past couple of years in that price range that I should take a look at first?
Ag97
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Well, I picked out a bow tonight and got started getting it decked out. I shot 3 different bows and decided I liked the Diamond Rock 2.0 the best. The fellas at Cabela's were nice but only 1 really seemed to know what he was doing setting up the bow. They were having a hard time getting everything lined up with the peep site and pin sights and we were shooting 3 feet high. We ran out of time tonight and I'm supposed to take it back in a day or two and get it dialed in. I guess this is where buying from an experienced bow shop would have come in handy. Too bad I couldn't get gift certificates for somebody local.

Overall I'm pretty excited, but trying to choose from all the different options available for the accessories was pretty confusing. I really have no idea which sight, rest and release is going to work best for me. I can see how this could get pretty expensive if I keep having to buy new items and using them for awhile to see which I like best.

I plan on setting up a target in my yard using hay bales as a backstop and trying to find a good deal on a couple of foam targets to practice on.

Now for the questions.

What do I need to look for in arrows and broad heads?

What type of case do you guys suggest?

I didn't try a stabilizer. How do I know if I need one? Half the guys said they don't use one and the others said they did. If I need one, how do you pick one out?

If anybody around College Station wants to show me how to shoot one of these days and give me some pointers I'd buy lunch or dinner for the help.




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shiftyandquick
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I'm kinda in the same boat as you. I have my new bow, but no accessories yet.

I have read that hay bales will not work well as a target backstop, that with the power of these modern bows, they will go right through. So be aware of that possibility.

I assume you don't live near Dallas, but the Texins Archery Club apparently has a beginner course at their range (Elm Fork) that I may check out. $10 I think. Can bring your own bow.
RustyBoltz
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I really have no idea which sight, rest and release is going to work best for me. I can see how this could get pretty expensive if I keep having to buy new items and using them for awhile to see which I like best.

I'd look at a Truglo 5 pin sight and a QAD Ultra-Rest fall away - I've been very pleased with this combo on my Guardian and it was in my price point. As far as a release, I don't remember which model, but it is a T.R.U. Ball buckle release (quieter than velcro and wont irritate skin or stick to long sleeves) and in stead of a post head, it has the swivel head connected by a strap so that I can fold it back and tuck into my jacket when climbing into a stand.

I plan on setting up a target in my yard using hay bales as a backstop and trying to find a good deal on a couple of foam targets to practice on.

I started with a hay bale myself but soon found it not to be strong enough to catch arrows. The hay bales loose their tension after a couple weeks and then you start loosing arrows deep within and having to pull the fletching through the hay - not ideal. Don't get me wrong, hay will get you started, but with the hay prices around my house going up, if I didn't have secondary use for them, I would have just put the money toward a better foam target.

Now for the questions.

What do I need to look for in arrows and broad heads?

A local archery shop will get you setup with the arrows that you need and get them cut to length for you if you bring in your bow and tell them your poundage. I bought 6 carbon easton arrows when I first got my bow but then went to Wal-Mart and got some aluminum arrows to use while I was concentrating on form and not have to worry about losing/damaging them.

What type of case do you guys suggest?

I caught the Plano "protector" case on sale at BPS and have been happy with it. It fits my bow, straps it down and holds my 6 carbon arrows.

I didn't try a stabilizer. How do I know if I need one? Half the guys said they don't use one and the others said they did. If I need one, how do you pick one out?

Get one, you'll be happy you spent the money. It does just what it says - stabilizes the bow. I shot with and without one and prefer having it on. I just bought a standard octane hunting one to match my Guardian but you'd probably be happy with any of the Limbsaver stabilizers.

If anybody around College Station wants to show me how to shoot one of these days and give me some pointers I'd buy lunch or dinner for the help.

I'll be in CS starting next thursday. I don't have years of experience, as I only got into archery last fall, but I'll give you all the help I can.
Vero143
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For arrows, it might be worth a trip to Houston to get setup with arrows. I would visit Viking Archery, they know thier stuff.

I went through 3 sets of broadheads until I found some I liked. What I look for in a broadhead is something that flies as true as a fieldpoint, so that when I put either on my shooter arrows, they fly the same. I use Slick Tricks. There are tons of broadheads available. I would say that the Rage 2 blades, Slick Tricks, G5 Montecs and Muzzy are the most popular and are all great. Bowhunter.com just had an article online about the new broadheads for 2011, maybe run a search on the site for it under "New Gear" Section.

I use a Limbsaver Xpress stabilizer. I think it reduces the shock from the shot and makes for a smoother release overall. I have not hunted with many folks that do not use one. They also help balance out the bow.

Check your inbox.

[This message has been edited by Vero143 (edited 8/11/2010 8:30a).]
montanagriz
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ttt
MouthBQ98
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Sights on a bow? That's like tits on a bull. /Every bowman before the middle of the 20th century.

[This message has been edited by MouthBQ98 (edited 8/11/2010 10:49a).]
rock08
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Make sure that your target points weigh the same as the broadheads you pick out.

On my first deer I took I shot it with a 125 gr broadhead while i practiced with a 90 gr field point. OOPS! The arrow hit her leg. Second shot I compensated and sliced her jugular.
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