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Removing bradford pear

1,656 Views | 17 Replies | Last: 28 days ago by Gunny456
trip98
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AG
I didn't want to hijack the other thread on trees so starting this

we have 2 bradford pear trees in back yard....I didn't know how bad they were when we put in. Now I want to take them out. Wife REALLY REALLY wants to keep one as it really does a great job blocking neighbors house. And I do agree.

The other one doesn't block anything but view of other trees. And last year roots busted up some irrigation lines and that was a big pain in the butt so I've decided to remove it. I know the downside is having one tree on one corner but no tree on other and the aesthetics but we do live right by the woods so the view will be nice and not just looking at someones house.

Got a quote from a tree company I've used in past to trim my oak trees. They do NOT do stump removal so after the tree is gone my thoughts would to just rent a stump grinder from HD and get it chopped up as much as possible.

Sound like a good idea?

will it be like a crepe myrtle where any roots left will still try to keep growing? if so, I'm guessing I need to put some chemicals on it...but wouldn't know which to use

anything I'm missing that I need to consider?
zooguy96
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AG
1. Remove ALL Bradford pears. Find another tree to provide shade; any Bradford Pear is a waste of a tree.

2. Stump grind. If they are smaller with trunks no bigger than a couple of inches, I've had better luck waiting until it rains or the ground is saturated, using a sawzaw with a long blade, and cutting the exterior roots and afterwards the tap root.

3. Remove ALL Bradford pears if you didn't read #1.

4. How big are the trees? Are they something you can't remove by yourself? I've removed a couple of 6-8" diameter trees in my back yard, but they weren't close to anything (I have almost 2 acres), so it didn't matter which way they fell.

5. If you need to use herbicide, use the highest percentage of glyphosate you can find with a surfactant (dawn dish detergent, or they do sell surfactants at nursery's) - although we usually used a citrus oil as the base instead of water when cut stumping invasives... this has been about 15 years ago, so I'm sure there is something better.
I know a lot about a little, and a little about a lot.
Doc Hayworth
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You can always graft Asian Pear onto the Bradford and make it a productive tree. Straight Bradford pears are a waste of a tree, might as well get it to where it produces fruit.
Gunny456
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Trip. We have a bunch up here. I typically cut them with my tree shear flush to the ground. Then spray the stump with Remedy.
TAMU Wildlife and Fisheries Sciences

Boat racing is like a beautiful woman.......expensive, high maintenance, but well worth the fun!
Milwaukees Best Light
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AG
Why do they suck so bad? I am not familiar with them.
zooguy96
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Milwaukees Best Light said:

Why do they suck so bad? I am not familiar with them.


1. Highly invasive. Small ones will start coming up everywhere. We have a ton in East Tennessee.
2. Wood is soft, so breaks easily in win storms. They fall over quite easily.
I know a lot about a little, and a little about a lot.
BrazosDog02
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My tree guy usually gives me a discount when I have anything done if I take all of the "refuse". I have him cut anything arm sized or bigger into 18" lengths. Everything else he tosses in the mulcher. Then he dumps the whole mulcher bed in my yard and leaves at the end of the day without needing to dump or pay fees for it.

I say that because you might want to save your pear tree wood if you are into smoking meat and splitting. I think it would make a good wood to smoke with?

As a side story, growing up we had two pear trees. They were not Bradford. I don't know what they were but it was a large hard pear. My best friend and I built some spud guns and bought a bag of potatoes before realizing we had a literal truck load of ammunition for it. We spent HOURS launching these pears 100-150 yards in every direction of the side yard. It sounded like a war zone. We cleaned out Moms cabinet of Lysol. Hahaha.
maverick12
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AG
I was outside with the dog years ago when about a quarter of a Bradford Pear (planted by prior owners) fell on to our garage roof. The tree was mature but healthy and there was literally zero wind. Cut them all down. They are terrible trees.
AgGrad99
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RE: Stump removal.

I've never had to remove a stump, but can't you just burn them out, instead of having to rent a grinder?
Milwaukees Best Light
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Ok. I knew the ornamental pear trees were like that. I guess the fruit trees are about the same. Glad I opened this thread. I was considering putting one in later this spring.
Gunny456
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All the old ranchers up here say Bradford Pear is an ok firewood but it burns up fast. It also must be seasoned for a couple of years to get rid of the moisture in it to burn good.
TAMU Wildlife and Fisheries Sciences

Boat racing is like a beautiful woman.......expensive, high maintenance, but well worth the fun!
robbio
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If you're not in a hurry apply Remedy and the whole thing will die roots and all. Then let it disintegrate slowly.
trip98
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Thanks for the replies.
Trying to answer as much as I can here.
Tree is about 30 feet tall and trunk is about 18 inches diameter.
It is also next to our fence and on other side neighbor has part of his covered patio.
So it ain't a job for me. I've thinned it out with telescoping saw over the years but that's the extent I want to try here. I have used the wood for firewood and gunny is right.....takes a loooong time to dry out
It has survived some strong winds....beryl and harvey

Just gotta figure out what to do. I have the cut stump and vine killer I use for small things like vines. But it's a light version of the ingredient in remedy
beatlesphan
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AG
Poisoning the trunk and waiting for the stump to rot will take years. Do it right- get the stump ground
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trip98
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beatlesphan said:

Poisoning the trunk and waiting for the stump to rot will take years. Do it right- get the stump ground


That's one reason I was asking. It's on the edge of a flower bed so a little raised up.
I was thinking I'd dig out around it before they remove. Then grind what's left and see if I can get it below the level of the rest of the bed. Then maybe still holes and out in chemical, cover with plastic and then cover that with dirt and mulch
Gunny456
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Trip. If you can get someone that rents a skid steer and has a tree shear it can be sheared below ground level a bit or thereabouts and you don't have to mess grinding it down.
Thats what I've done to a bunch up here…..but you will need to still put triclopyr or Remedy on it.
Even if you ground the stump down it will still re sprout without spraying it.

If you want to practice on how to do it you can come help me. I've probably got over 100 of the damn things to cut down and I've already cleared at least half that already….along with hundreds of Honey Locust.

ETA: Something no one has asked….how big a diameter tree are you talking about??
trip98
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Gunny456 said:

Trip. If you can get someone that rents a skid steer and has a tree shear it can be sheared below ground level a bit or thereabouts and you don't have to mess grinding it down.
Thats what I've done to a bunch up here…..but you will need to still put triclopyr or Remedy on it.
Even if you ground the stump down it will still re sprout without spraying it.

If you want to practice on how to do it you can come help me. I've probably got over 100 of the damn things to cut down and I've already cleared at least half that already….along with hundreds of Honey Locust.

ETA: Something no one has asked….how big a diameter tree are you talking about??

diameter is 14-15"

Gunny....I'm in the burbs...ain't no way a skid steer is getting in my backyard without tearing up tons of fences...both mine and neighbors!!

If we didn't live 9+ hours away you know me and AJ would be there to help. you could teach AJ how its done and then sit back and supervise!! I'll deliver the cold beer, steaks and whiskey!!

Gunny456
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AG
That's a good sized tree. Understand about the skid steer.
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