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Butt weld tee fitting help...

3,646 Views | 33 Replies | Last: 11 days ago by Ducks4brkfast
Centerpole90
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AG
I am looking for a 2.5" weld butt tee in carbon steel pipe. I have a collection of them here but every one I have found or ordered is too thick wall on the straight portion to allow 2" pipe to slide into it. The straight portion wall thickness on all the ones I have is about 0.260" +/- and the wall thickness on the branch is 0.203". 2" pipe fits perfectly into the branch... but not the straight. I am looking for a tee that has 0.203" wall thickness all the way around. I know this exists because darn near every pipeliner's hoosier pole has one. Here is what I have, and don't let the " .203 wall " fool you, that's just the branch.

https://www.buyfittingsonline.com/carbon-steel-wpd-import-butt-weld-tees-astm-sa234-std-wall-st02-5/?srsltid=AfmBOoqL24WA9k-IVYMbH4ntKvf4Jmm4GF72kcfC36hPM8YyWAtfzMxW

The IG link below is exactly what I want to build. I noticed that the tee this guy is using is green, and the "Domestic" tees on different websites are green too. (not the straight pipe, but the tee in the shot of his fit up) Not being a pipe fitter, I presume that means it is domestic manufactured? AI says the origin shouldn't change the spec or tolerances, in fact, AI says that I need a fabricated tee, but my buddy's truck has one that it not fabricated and the fit is perfect.

So I beseech you M.E. and oilfield guys... before I rear up on yet another disappointing online purchase (domestic are more expensive), would the origin of the fitting make a difference here? If not, what am I missing to get a straight wall tee? TIA.

https://instagr.am/p/DGcFXh9too2



Marauder Blue 6
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AG
Origin and color doesn't matter. The spec is the spec. Different manufacturers paint them different colors. I've sold red, green, blue, and black fittings from manufacturers all over the world.

Sounds like you may have a 2.5" XH x STD tee. A 2.5" STD tee should work from what you've described.

https://www.tiogapipe.com/assets/files/pipe-chart.pdf
Ogre09
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A butt weld should be 2" to 2", butted up against each other with a bevel to fill. If you're wanting to slide the pipe into the fitting and then weld a fillet at the joint, that's called a socket weld. You'd use a 2" socket fitting for that.



Or am I misunderstanding something?
AggieRob93
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AG
CP90, you mention you have a butt weld tee, and posted a link to a butt weld tee, but also say you want the pipe to slide/slip into the tee. If that's the case, why not a socket weld tee, which is designed for the pipe OD to slip onto the socket/hub?
jrrhouston98
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AG
The green color is FBE, or fusion bond epoxy coating. It has nothing to do with the manufacture of the pipe or fittings. It is added after th pipe is made as a protective coating. You would need to grind off prior to welding.
Centerpole90
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Thanks guys for the replies, info, and suggestions. Respectfully, I didn't dream this up or engineer something new, I am trying to replicate this, I just haven't hit on the right component to let me do that.



You can see the 2.5" butt weld tee, elbow, and pipe. Extending downward through that tee is a length of 2" pipe that the top arm swivels and can extend out on. A socket weld fitting won't allow for that. I'll save you the trouble of zooming and flipping the pic to read the stamp its a "2 1/2 STD WPB". Which is exactly what I am holding a handful of from many countries not named USA...



...but even if they are the same spec, 2 1/2 STD butt weld fittings, the ID of the fittings is different; at least through the straight portion.

I thought about milling the tee or turning the pipe, but that wasn't required in the example I'm following - and honestly, that juice isn't worth the squeeze. I wanted to use the tee because it gives a more finished look, but I'm about to proceed with just saddling the pipe up out of frustration.
Ogre09
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AG
Sorry, I didn't understand what you were doing before. Makes sense now. You're doing structural, not piping, and you want the 2" OD to slip fit in the 2.5" ID. Just wondering, does the 2" pivot piece fit up into the 2.5" elbow? How do you join those?

I agree with Marauder that the standard wall, SCH 40 tee should work. Obviously the one(s) you have don't, so they may be oddball Chinese crap. Maybe they're using XH/SCH 80 pieces for all the straight runs on their tees to standardize their process. But it's wrong, should match ID throughout.

If you have a local supply shop available, maybe go up in person and check fit up before you buy?
Zjones920
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CP,

Not sure where you live and i agree with everyone else. It should not matter what brand fitting you get they should all be the same. If are really wanting something domestic though, we typically buy Weldbend branded fittings. It looks like based on their spec sheet its the .203 wall thickness you're asking for.

Zjones920
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I'm not sure i understand how they weld the 2 1/2" 90 to the 2" drop piece either. Cleanest look would be a reducing 90, but those are fairly expensive and not just anyone is going to have those in stock.
schmellba99
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Ogre09 said:

A butt weld should be 2" to 2", butted up against each other with a bevel to fill. If you're wanting to slide the pipe into the fitting and then weld a fillet at the joint, that's called a socket weld. You'd use a 2" socket fitting for that.



Or am I misunderstanding something?

He wants to slide a 2" pipe through a 2.5" tee so that the tee hinges/swings on the pipe.
schmellba99
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Zjones920 said:

I'm not sure i understand how they weld the 2 1/2" 90 to the 2" drop piece either. Cleanest look would be a reducing 90, but those are fairly expensive and not just anyone is going to have those in stock.

It's just a fillet weld ground smooth after. Almost like a socket but with a standard fitting.
Marauder Blue 6
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ASME B16.9 only requires the fittings to meet tolerances at the BW end of the fitting. What's inside the tee is a different story. Depends on the manufacurer and their processes. Some are a little or a lot better than others. I've seen all kinds, both domestic and international manufacture.

If you want to guarantee a 2" pipe will pass through, you'll have to try tees one by one to find one that fits or send one to a machine shop to have it bored out to meet your specs.
schmellba99
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Marauder Blue 6 said:

ASME B16.9 only requires the fittings to meet tolerances at the BW end of the fitting. What's inside the tee is a different story. Depends on the manufacurer and their processes. Some are a little or a lot better than others. I've seen all kinds, both domestic and international manufacture.

If you want to guarantee a 2" pipe will pass through, you'll have to try tees one by one to find one that fits or send one to a machine shop to have it bored out to meet your specs.

They would have to be pretty loose on their tolerances. Not out of the realm of possibility.

A 2-1/2" sch 40 or a 2-1/2" sch STD *should* have an ID that would allow a 2" pipe of any schedule to slide through it with a smidge of wiggle room.
Centerpole90
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It is not out of the realm of possibility. I have 3 here from various sources and they are anywhere from 'not gonna go' to 'if I had a fingernail file I think it would fit'. Unfortunately, the latter still won't go and if it did, it wouldn't move after a rain.

Thank you all, ya'll are all tracking on what I'm trying to do now. Marauder is right, if I had lots of local suppliers I could walk around with a foot long piece of 2" pipe and try them all out. Since I have exhausted the local sources with no luck I guess I will turn to the mill. As was pointed out, the 2" pipe to the 2.5" 90* is an awkward fit and the solution is 7018. I didn't like that fit on my buddy's, and I don't like the pinched look of the bevels kissing, so before I even realized that it wouldn't work I milled off the bevel on this tee. The plan was to machine a narrow collar and make that all smooth.



My work holding on that was a little sketchy and will need rethinking before I try invasive surgery. Right now, I think that's where I'm headed.
schmellba99
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Milling a fitting!?!?!? What kind of nonsense is that? Errbody knows you only use a grinder.
schmellba99
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And on the one that you think would work with a smidge of filing - get a long drum sander attachment. Or chuck it up in the lathe and counter bore it out some I guess.
MouthBQ98
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What's the bung and plug with T handle for? To lock it in place in a specific position?
Centerpole90
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Exactly
Canawhoopazz
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Maybe turn the 2" down on a lathe or grind the tee with a straight grinder. Drill and tap for a grease fitting.
Centerpole90
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Well, that went much smoother than I anticipated. I was really worried that the intermittent cut at the branch was going to be a bigger deal than it ended up being. I held from the inside with no problem, probably could have done it from outside just as easy.



Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions, here and offline. I am no longer in the market for this tee and have a couple extras for the next project. One added benefit to sharing on TA: once you hit post there is a sense of obligation to see it through for the group. Now I'm farther along because I wanted to resolve this thread today - I just didn't think it would have been so easy or I wouldn't have started the thread.



Like a glove!
Ducks4brkfast
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Post a pic after you lay your fillet welds and I'll do a visual inspection to let you know if it's good to go. But first I'll need to see your WPS/PQR and welder cert.
southernboy1
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Don't know your location but go to an oilfield supply house
Centerpole90
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Ducks4brkfast said:

Post a pic after you lay your fillet welds and I'll do a visual inspection to let you know if it's good to go. But first I'll need to see your WPS/PQR and welder cert.

If I post a pic of the welding it will be from a lot farther away.
Ogre09
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Good work!

Keep sharing pics as it progresses.
jt2hunt
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What are you making?
Whitetail
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Nice work Centerpole. If I need a mill or a lathe, I now know who to reach out to.
Centerpole90
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This. However - I'm certainly no pipeliner and the one thing not mentioned in this video is that on the end of the Hoosier pole is an umbrella holder you can swing out in a small radius around that side of the truck. That is what I would primarily use it for; to throw up some shade somewhere around the truck once every few years. Lol. It's just a silly project, but one I wanted to do right.

BlueSmoke
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Centerpole90
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I have functionally finished this project and I sincerely appreciate the help earlier working out the clearances on butt weld pipe fittings, so I want to report out my results. This whole 'project' is really a sub-project of a sub-project that is so far from what I set out to do that it's comical. It involves an epic level of Dude Math and, honestly, it should be documented as a study of the male's ability to justify so much project creep that it's hard to remember what the original objective was. However, there is no way you're going to stay hooked up and read through it all, so suffice to say it involves: FB Marketplace finds, welder overhauls, and in the case of my enabling buddy: whole ass truck purchases.

First, to get us to this thread we have to start 8 years ago in that thread where I said:
Quote:

In time I want to find a sponsor and before CPjr graduates I'd like to do away with the current awning and build a new one that spans both sets of pits.

Too late. CPjr graduated from high school. CPJr graduated from Texas A&M. CPjr has moved on and has a job somewhere else but I finally found that sponsor: Me.

The dream of completing that project is why by buddy called me back in March and said that he'd found some pipe trusses we could buy on the cheap for use at the fairground and why I rolled up a few minutes later at the speed of light with a gooseneck and cash. What followed was a series of shenanigans that were supposed to end with us replacing this dilapidated shed at the fairgrounds, but instead culminated with my buddy parked in my driveway drinking a beer in the shade of his *new to him* welding truck's hoosier pole & umbrella and goading me because, well, I had no hoosier pole. The next thing I knew I was buying pipe fittings online and asking the OB why this sh*t didn't all fit and y'all kindly came to the rescue here and offline. More importantly, the fate of the fairgrounds project hung in the balance; no hoosier pole = no new building project. See how that works?

Once I started the fit up it almost came to grinding halt because I seriously thought about sidelining the whole deal and building myself a rollout wheel to weld these 3 pieces together. But enough was enough. Even I had found my limit; dream less - weld more.



When it comes to sketchy work holding, I am the King. I will say, if you like fabbing stuff up the Flange Wizard is the best magnetic level you can buy. It will fly across the shop to latch onto whatever you're working on it's like the MRI machine of magnetic levels. Whoever says "a lathe is the only tool that can build itself" never jacked with welding truck beds.



When I got done and trial fit it on the truck I couldn't believe how level and square it was. It was level with the bed, level with the hood line of the welder, level with itself, and square with the world. That made me so happy I even splurged on primer before I painted it.





Now I can sit in the shade of my own pipeliner's cloud and opine about how I'm soon going to start my project at the fairgrounds, as long as I don't see any more bright and shiny distractions between here and there...







There are still some details to work like a storage tube for the umbrella and pipe stand racks, but those are just details now. I'll report back when we make progress on my philanthropic county fairgrounds building project that almost didn't happen because the inside dimension of import 2.5" butt weld fittings are sometimes too tight to let 2" schedule 40 pipe pass through them. "For want of a nail" and all that stuff...
schmellba99
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AG
Solid work. And that is a bigass umbrella. One that only a welder would have.

Also, I noticed you don't have a small BBQ pit on your welding bed. -1000 welder points for such an oversight.
Carpe D1em
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Ducks4brkfast said:

Post a pic after you lay your fillet welds and I'll do a visual inspection to let you know if it's good to go. But first I'll need to see your WPS/PQR and welder cert.


By chance a 570 or cwi?
Ducks4brkfast
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Carpe D1em said:

Ducks4brkfast said:

Post a pic after you lay your fillet welds and I'll do a visual inspection to let you know if it's good to go. But first I'll need to see your WPS/PQR and welder cert.


By chance a 570 or cwi?

Not just a cwi, but a scwi
schmellba99
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Ducks4brkfast said:

Carpe D1em said:

Ducks4brkfast said:

Post a pic after you lay your fillet welds and I'll do a visual inspection to let you know if it's good to go. But first I'll need to see your WPS/PQR and welder cert.


By chance a 570 or cwi?

Not just a cwi, but a scwi

That just means you are old
Ducks4brkfast
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AG
schmellba99 said:

Ducks4brkfast said:

Carpe D1em said:

Ducks4brkfast said:

Post a pic after you lay your fillet welds and I'll do a visual inspection to let you know if it's good to go. But first I'll need to see your WPS/PQR and welder cert.


By chance a 570 or cwi?

Not just a cwi, but a scwi

That just means you are old

old and overly oaked.
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