midlife crisis?

1,440 Views | 25 Replies | Last: 7 hrs ago by NWE
NWE
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9:03p, 5/12/26
AG
Okay. I find myself wanting a square body k10 manual to work on. Like a '77 or an '84 style. The thing is, aside from golf carts, I've never worked on automobiles.

Is this a project I could learn bit by bit thru YouTube and TexAgs?

How complicated would it be to work on an old truck? It feels like a fun and engaging project.

Something like this:
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P.H. Dexippus
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10:26p, 5/12/26
AG
YouTube, RockAuto and this board will get you far. Go for it.
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TxSquarebody
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5:10a, 5/13/26
Do it!
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NWE
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6:47a, 5/13/26
AG
How do I find a project? I'm looking at rust mainly, right?

Is 84 a solid year?
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YZ250
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7:27a, 5/13/26
The Fall Guy's truck!
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Gator92
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8:15a, 5/13/26
AG
If in TX, anything 25+ years doesn't require a emissions inspection.

You can knock off catalytics and any and all emission stuff.

Square bodies have gotten pretty expensive, but go for what you want. Parts are plentiful. Plenty of utube mechanicals to guide u. The GM V8 may be the greatest thing ever created.

Any year square body can be modified the way you want. I'd look for 76 or older, but I'm guessing you can find them that have already been emission deleted...
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Matsui
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1:33p, 5/13/26
AG
sick
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GeorgiAg
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1:58p, 5/13/26
AG
Do it! Post pics of progress.
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NWE
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1:58p, 5/13/26
AG
https://ebay.us/m/vGnyPb


How concerning is the rust in the floor pans here?
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TxSquarebody
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In reply to NWE • 2:51p, 5/13/26
For a K10, you will be finding a lot of rust and stuff that has been *******ized. Increasing your budget lowers the percentage of rust. A long bed K10 will be cheaper. It also rides better.
73-79 are virtually identical. As is the 81-87. 80 is a unique creature sharing the 73-79 body, but with square headlights. 81 and 82 are unique with turn signals in the front bumper.
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NWE
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In reply to TxSquarebody • 2:51p, 5/13/26
AG
Thank you!
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NWE
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In reply to TxSquarebody • 4:14p, 5/13/26
AG
https://ebay.us/m/rma4aR

No interior pics but I'm gathering that 5.7 350 manual is sought after
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NWE
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In reply to NWE • 4:24p, 5/13/26
AG
Why are these things so expensive gah dang
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agnerd
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In reply to NWE • 4:27p, 5/13/26
AG
NWE said:
Why are these things so expensive gah dang

Because everyone (like you) wants one
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TxSquarebody
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In reply to NWE • 5:16p, 5/13/26
So the 87 is another 1 year only special. It was the first year of the throttle body injection.
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TxSquarebody
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In reply to NWE • 5:26p, 5/13/26
Check Facebook marketplace or ask someone with Facebook to look for you. For that ebay truck, running and driving, I'd pay no more than 9k for it. And that's if everything is sound enough to drive home. 20k trucks better have a decent interior and cold a/c!
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Max Power
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In reply to NWE • 6:01p, 5/13/26
AG
NWE said:
Okay. I find myself wanting a square body k10 manual to work on. Like a '77 or an '84 style. The thing is, aside from golf carts, I've never worked on automobiles.

Is this a project I could learn bit by bit thru YouTube and TexAgs?

How complicated would it be to work on an old truck? It feels like a fun and engaging project.

Something like this:

This looks more like mid-life clarity, not mid-life crisis.
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BrazosDog02
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7:13p, 5/13/26
AG
Rust is just part of the game on those and repairing that is what makes these expensive to restore. That in turn makes asking prices high. I looked at buying a 67 Cheyenne yesterday. It was painted and shiny and had a LOLWUT price of $17,500. A quick glance at the corners of the pans and seeing the underside body mounds rusted off made that an easy decision.

You will need to inspect the under side for rust. If you get one that has been repainted, find out when it was repainted. If it's a fresh repaint, it is likely hiding rust that won't show through the paint for a few years.

You just need to check it out. All rust issues can be solved if your pockets are deep enough, but the best option is to find one that is already in good shape.

If you can manage to find one with JUST rusted floor pans, you are already ahead of the game.
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Silvy
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7:42p, 5/13/26
AG
My 77 K5 is the most difficult vehicle I have to work on. The fasteners suck and you've got to order just about everything online. Popping into Oreillys for a quick part run doesn't really exist for it. I honestly dread working on it.

A 88-98 is still modern enough that parts can be found somewhat easily in store and the fitment/fastening of parts is so much better.
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NWE
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In reply to TxSquarebody • 7:50p, 5/13/26
AG
Can I DM you one I don't want someone to swoop in and steal?
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TxSquarebody
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In reply to NWE • 8:20p, 5/13/26
..help you however I can
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NWE
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9:24p, 5/13/26
AG
Thanks again. Going to meet up with the seller this weekend. Fingers crossed. Might soon have a fun project to sink time and money into
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TxSquarebody
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In reply to NWE • 9:55p, 5/13/26
One more thing to look for...the 4x4's like to crack the frame right where the steering gearbox bolts to it. It can be repaired, but look for it.
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NWE
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In reply to TxSquarebody • 9:59p, 5/13/26
AG
I wish you were in the metroplex lol

This seller is being very transparent so I feel pretty good about being educated in the defects. I'll be back with questions soon
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classicdoug
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6:42a
AG
If you can see rust, run away. There is always way more rust hidden than what you see.

One place these like to rust is the seam on the firewall. Open the hood and look at the seam that runs across the length of the firewall. If it looks bubbled up or crusty don't even waste your time on that one. It is major surgery to fix that. Floor pans can be replaced, but if they are pretty rusty, chances are rocker panels, cab corners, and inner kick panel areas are rusted too.

Otherwise, parts are definitely readily available, although you'll find that reproduction parts are mostly junk. You are way better off spending more and starting with a good truck than buying one cheap needing lots of repairs
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NWE
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In reply to classicdoug • 8:05a
AG
Looks pretty good
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