Help With Exterior Door Replacement That Turned Into Much Bigger Job

950 Views | 9 Replies | Last: 1 mo ago by southernskies
High Functioning Moron
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I decided to replace my back door, which has turned into a much bigger job after ripping out the old door. This is a 1950s house that I believe had an addition added, and I have no idea how they did the foundation. It has different levels, and it appears that they just sandwiched one layer on top of another.



This was after ripping out the old door and the rotted "bottom plate" that was not part of the framing. They took a 2X4 and seemingly glued it on top of the concrete pad. The pad wasn't level, so they had little blocks of wood stuffed under the 2X4 to try to make it level. That top concrete pad was glued to the second level of concrete with tar and came right up after sticking a flathead screwdriver in between the two pieces. You can see in the second pic how the top concrete pad was placed on top.



This is after taking off the top concrete pad and chiseling away the second level of concrete. I chiseled it out because parts of it had already crumbled away, and other sections crumbled to the touch. I finished chiseling that layer, but I don't have a picture.


My question is, how should I raise this section so that the door jamb has something to sit on and clears the wood floor? I was thinking about tying into the existing foundation and pouring a small concrete slab. Should it go up to the concrete, that the wood screeds sit?

Is there a better method? Stacking 2X4s or 2X6s up to the wood floor? I appreciate anyonw's insight.
Aggietaco
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AG
Is your adjacent wall framing still sitting on something solid?

I would drill a few dowels in and pour a concrete curb back up to the level of your subfloor, then use treated lumber to raise and slope your sill. It looks like you have enough elevation from outside that water intrusion shouldn't be a real issue.
High Functioning Moron
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The framing studs are completely rotted at the bottom and will need to be replaced.

Aggietaco
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AG
That definitely looks like a snowball.

How far beyond the king studs is your sill plate destroyed?
Marvin_Zindler
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AG
Those sleepers on their side? What?
dubi
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AG
We have a 1960's house where we replaced the front door and had a similar issue.

Using some extra bricks leftover from cutting a hole for a dog door, Mr Dubi created a new brick threshold in place of the old 2x4.

EDIT: looks like those are partial bricks that he cut with our tile saw.




High Functioning Moron
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Everytime we peel something back in this house, we find an issue that is worse than we could have imagined.

From what I can tell, there is no sill plate.
High Functioning Moron
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I'm not quite sure what a sleeper is…
dubi
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AG
High Functioning Moron said:

Everytime we peel something back in this house, we find an issue that is worse than we could have imagined.

From what I can tell, there is no sill plate.
Our new door is mounted on the bricks; it is easy to do something similar.
southernskies
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Sleepers are just 1x4's or 2x4's that all are installed under the plywood that they typically put down under a hardwood floor installation. The sleepers are shimmed proportionate to the how far out of level you slab is. Think of them like extra set of floor joists to get your new flooring system flat.

That is a gnarly problem you got there with the rotted sill plates. If I was you I'd start cutting out the bottom 1' of drywall starting at the door and working out to survey the damage. Unfortunately that means you'll have to rip up your baseboards too.

For the door sill issue you can just form a new curb and use some Sakrete to pour back. You could drill a few holes in existing slab, put some wedge anchors in there with a nut and washer screwed on the threads instead typical epoxied rebar dowels.
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