Nice! I had a '95.5 4x4 Tacoma in HS. It was a cool truck other than the whine from the 4banger.

We will get to the alignment and suspension inspection. First order is clean engine bay before the takedown and disassembly of engine to the top head gasket. There is evidence of a head gasket leak with the oil a nice iced latte coffee color. Question I have is do I stop at the top head gasket and just see if that solves the leak issue, or would you go ahead and d take it all the way down and inspect the lower seals and look for any cracks in the case? I'm thinking the former. Get in, try the easiest option and see what happens. If the issue isn't solved, I can then dig deeper…

Not sure if you have any confidence on how hard it was driven, but between that and the mileage would maybe suggest how far to go. Replacing a head gasket is much less effort than an all-out run through for sure but your biggest concern is probably water infiltration if you go the gasket only route and you'd have to watch that like a hawk until you're confident it's not an issue. With the head removed make sure there isn't any valve/piston damage or indication of anything that would make that decision for you. Water is incompressible so if it makes it into the cylinder it's no bueno just as much as into the oil. You might have anything from a slightly bent valve or ring blow-by, to just water and/or oil where it shouldn't be.

The gasket and marks on the head should tell the story of the leak and maybe even hint at why it failed. But without magnaflux-ing the engine parts you can't be 100% sure you don't have a crack somewhere anyway and that's a much bigger job as you indicated. Sometimes a very close visual inspection of the head/block mating surfaces can show cracks/damage but it's not foolproof.

Thanks for the insight. I have looked into an engine replacement cost and it wouldn't be my first choice, but it is on the table.

I would at least take the head to a machine shop to be checked & perhaps resurface it.

tlfw378 said:

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We will get to the alignment and suspension inspection. First order is clean engine bay before the takedown and disassembly of engine to the top head gasket. There is evidence of a head gasket leak with the oil a nice iced latte coffee color. Question I have is do I stop at the top head gasket and just see if that solves the leak issue, or would you go ahead and d take it all the way out, LS swap it and install a solid front axle and full cage?

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I vote SAS and cage.

Does anyone have a recommendation on a reputable place for a new used 5vz-fe 3.4l engine? I've read more than a few bad reviews and scams on some of these engine sources. Yota1 performance wants $1k core charge and they are 6-9 months wait, not to mention the costs of their engine rebuilds. They look nice though. Anywhere is Texas have high quality rebuilt engines? I'm trying to line up ducks….

Jasper and ATK are fine options as well. But I think most folks will recommend Yota1 as the place to go if you aren't going to have a shop do a rebuild for you. The Jasper and ATK options will probably be a similar price point but likely more readily available.

tlfw378 said:

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Thanks for the insight. I have looked into an engine replacement cost and it wouldn't be my first choice, but it is on the table.

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ib4LSswap

Nah, 2UZ would at least keep it Toyota. Those motors can put down decent power.

TecRecAg said:

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tlfw378 said:

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Thanks for the insight. I have looked into an engine replacement cost and it wouldn't be my first choice, but it is on the table.

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ib4LSswap

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Is the LS an option? Will it fit? Which LS motor? Seriously interested in all my engine options.

Who in Houston could rebuild my Toyota engine, if it turns out to be necessary?

Any idea Toyota chat room websites I should look into?

tlfw378 said:

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TecRecAg said:

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tlfw378 said:

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Thanks for the insight. I have looked into an engine replacement cost and it wouldn't be my first choice, but it is on the table.

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ib4LSswap

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Is the LS an option? Will it fit? Which LS motor? Seriously interested in all my engine options.

Who in Houston could rebuild my Toyota engine, if it turns out to be necessary?

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You can put an LS in anything, I bet there are already engine swap mounts designed for this swap available somewhere. If not, universal mounts can be fabbed to fit.

Probably the main thing that makes an LS so appealing is its size, it fits in anything (that's what she said!)

Any LS would make this thing a rocket ship. I'd look for a clean Gen 3 or 4 - 5.3, they made a gazillion of them.

What is the ripple effect for putting in an LS motor? A different transmission? I do have to be budget conscious. I'm really after a reliable off-road hunting truck. Not a beater ranch truck and Not into rock climbing, mudding, and such…I just want to be able to go most anywhere, anytime. I hunt where it rains and gets muddy though and that limits my access with the F350.

tlfw378 said:

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Any idea Toyota chat room websites I should look into?

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ih8mud
tacomaworld
pirate4x4

...best to have excellent wrenching skills and a shop configured for that kind of operation if you're considering anything like an LS swap. You're going to be welding, modifying the engine compartment, driveline centering, etc. It's not for the faint of heart although everyone and their dog would make you think they do it and it's just easy-peasy.

It can be done. It's not trivial. You'll need a new transmission and likely driveline as well.

It would be a beast, but a beast to accomplish if you've never done it, and a beast to pay someone to do it.

I appreciate the input. I have 2 close buddies that are wizard mechanics, but I'm trying to take this on without the need of outside help. I would always welcome and appreciate help, but I know everyone's time is valuable. It was a good to look at this from a wider perspective and possibilities options, but I'm going to stick with the original engine rebuild. I did look into even other Toyota engines, but the same mechanic challenges would arise.

I hope to have this truck in the garage and start the documentation of all parts, hoses and connections so I can put it back together.

Again, I appreciate all the feedback. I'll keep you posted.

Naveronski said:

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tlfw378 said:

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Any idea Toyota chat room websites I should look into?

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ih8mud
tacomaworld
pirate4x4

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FYI, most of the old POR has moved on to a new domain, irate4x4.com

Ahhh yeah, thanks for the correction. I'm not active on it but I wanna say it seemed to decline 4-5 years ago?

Another excellent resource that I'm currently using is Timmy The Toolman on YouTube. He has some very in depth videos for the 5VZ-FE 3.4L. I just looked and there's a seven part series on a cracked head and head gasket replacement for the 3.4L that might help you out. And if the worse happens, he has a video on the removal, teardown/rebuild and installation of the 3.4L. I like that he goes step by step and references the Toyota Service Repair manual with torque spec's. He's awesome.

I have a 1999 Taco SR5 4x4 with the 3.4L that I'm currently doing the timing belt on because it was done incorrectly while the previous owner had it. The PO just had the timing belt, water pump, T-Stat and idler & tensioner bearings replaced right before I bought it. They reused the upper/lower rad hoses and now they are leaking. So while I was replacing those, I noticed what appeared to be rubber shavings with fiberglass coming from behind the upper engine timing belt cover. After getting into it, I found that the keyed washer that is just behind the lower engine timing cover and goes between the crankshaft pully and the timing crankshaft sprocket was installed backwards. This washer is concaved and if installed backwards, it will shave the timing belt. This is an extremely simple mistake that now has me replacing everything just because I don't trust what they did and I have a case of "while I'm there".

I've used Yota1 Performance for everything. They double check what you ordered against your VIN. Once I forgot to add the oil cooler hose after I placed my order. I called them and my box was already on the dock for pickup and they got it in there with no fuss. Good people.

Check Timmy out.

https://www.youtube.com/@TimmyTheToolman

Be sure to replace the ball joints and use OEM parts. These are common fail points

Parts are starting to arrive. Waiting on Calipers then I'll do the Tundra brake conversion on the front end.

New power plant for the 6.0 Diesel…

Put the new boots on the taco. Installed the 400 amp alternator, replaced the tension pulley to facory OEM with a tension lock, and proceeded to snap the bolt in two. Now I have a real pain in the ass job of getting this snapped bolt out of my engine block. The joys of being a gorilla meathead. Note to self…when a bolt just doesn't seem to get tight, and you are using a torque wrench, stop. Don't snap the bolt head off…

This is going to sound stupid, but if it works it'll save you a lot of time.

The way it broke it looks like it formed a slit big enough for a flat head bit and seems like you have enough space to get a hammer impact driver in there. Try to hose it down with pb blaster first, then see if you can slowly unscrew it using the impact pressed tight to the slit that is already formed. Or possibly just a regular screw driver and hope the pb blaster loosens it enough you can twist it out.

I'd do this and probably welding a nut to the bolt before drilling.

I actually carved the grove with a dremel, hoping to get a flat head to move it. Did not budge. I have an air hammer and I was thinking of trying it too. I have a niece who is marrying a certified professional welder and a Fireman who will be welding a nut on if I can't find another way first. I removed the fan, and fan clutch, fan shrouds to get as much room as possible. What I'm also trying to do is not make it worse. I haven't hit it with the blaster, and I will as soon as the rain gives me a chance. I have taken the opportunity since I had all the parts off, to replace my water cooler and fan clutch with a bullet proof cooling kit. Thank you for the advice.

Sounds like you were already heading in the right direction, carry on.