Getting an old Pickup Truck?

2,321 Views | 32 Replies | Last: 27 days ago by Tim Weaver
dtkprowler
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AG
Am I crazy?

I've been having some truck problems on a 2017 F150 and every time I think about it, I get more and more frustrated at how impossible these things are to work on, even for simple things.

So.... that has lead to a near obsession with buying an old 70's or early 80's Ford or Chevy with a lot less bells and whistles and a lot more room to work under the hood. I am not what you would call "mechanically inclined" because it has been a very long time since I owned a truck I could actually understand and work on. I did have a 90 bronco that I did a lot of work to but that was a couple of decades ago.

On top of that, I am looking to buy a "project" that won't cost a fortune to get into, but may be nice enough in a few years that one of my kiddos could drive. Would like something on the lower end of the budget that won't require a new engine or transmission right off the bat.

So, that leads me to my question. Am I crazy to think I'll find something that is not in the nicest condition, cheap enough I can buy outright and put a little money in to help it out mechanically, but doing the work myself? There is a plethora of knowledge on youtube and chatgpt seems to have even come a long way in helping diagnose and address issues.

Also... all that being said, anyone have a junker in that year/make that they want to sell?

This is basically how I see myself in several years....

agracer
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AG
When you consider passing it on to your kids, those 80's/90's tucks can't hold a candle to the safety of more modern cars/SUV's/trucks. I wouldn't put my kids in a car that does not have front and side impact airbags.

Google "crash test modern vs old impala" to see what I mean.



Old the boomers love to tell us how safe they were with all that metal around them, but it turns out a new civic is more survivable in a comparable crash than those old tanks.
Shelton98
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Old trucks may be easier to work on, but you'll be working on them a lot more often than a modern truck. Carburetors with today's ethanol containing fuel would be a constant problem and dealing with distributors, etc would be a PITA. Not to mention the 8 mpg or whatever it would get. I have a 78 Ford dent-side….. I'm not getting too far away from the house in that thing.
a07nathanb
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AG
Yes, yes you are.
What's wrong with the f150?

I don't think going back a few decades is going to solve your problems. If you like driving and working on old trucks that's another thing.

I guess if you must look for a gmt400 or 800
coolerguy12
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Get a 7.3 PSD.

I'm with you on all the crap on new vehicles.
Carny89
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2000-2006 gmt 800. Chevy. GMC. Runs forever. Even the obs trucks. 2007-13 are ok. But has the stupid afm. Cam issues.
malenurse
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Get a Dodge D100 with a slant 6 engine. You can literally sit in the engine compartment on the wheel well and work on the engine.
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But, it's still on the list.
BrazosDog02
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If you are not mechanically inclined, you better get mechanically inclined quickly if you want to own an old truck. I wouldn't even dream of taking my 77 F250 to a shop to work on unless they specialized in classics. Spend a lot of time online asking and talking to people that work on them and own them.

You really can't have an appreciation of old OR new util you've had both. My 2002 F150 has gone 450,000 miles without requiring any "tune up" other than maintenance items like plugs and coils. That isn't a thing on a 77 and it probably won't go 400,000 miles without a rebuild.

Definitely you should consider it but I would never daily drive my classics not only because of safety but because i can't just roll down to LKQ and pick up a new bed or tailgate to fix it if some a hole hits in.

Plus, compare an old 460 v8 to a modern 6 cylinder ford in your f150 in terms of power and capability. It's not even close.
Chewy
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There's a reason they don't make them like they used to.

New cars are more durable, efficient, and safer.

It would be nice if there were options for fewer bells and whistles so there's less opportunity for non essential stuff to break.

Would also be nice if some of the emissions stuff got stripped on diesels. Crazy to the amount of gains made in diesel efficiency and even durability only to be stripped away by emissions standards.

Have to love the government…
Rattler12
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I have an 83 Chevy SB fleetside with a rebuilt 305, a NV4500 5 spd trans, 3:73 posi RE, PS, PB, no A/C, bench seat, new int, new paint and roll up windows that I am considering selling. Also a 37 Chevy 3/4 T truck with 87 suburban power train, 350, 700R4 trans, 3:73 posi RE and a staked bed on it that I'll sell. Also have a 2017 single cab Ram 1/2 T Lonestar edition with 58K miles + or - on it. With as little as I drive I may keep the 83 for my daily driver and sell the Ram. Any interest PM me
txyaloo
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My best friend bought an 86 F250 back in the spring and had the same idea. After he's lived with it a bit, he decided it's too old for daily duty trying to drive BW8 in Houston. I have a 95 Bronco and wouldn't consider using that for a daily even after I've done a ton of things to modernize it. A 96-99 GMT400 would be a much better option if you want to stay "old"

I'd buy a 99-07 GMT800 over any 80s/90s rigs if you're really exploring this. Reliable engines, solid bodies, good styling, easy to mod if that's your thing, parts are plentiful, some more modern safety, significantly fewer computers than new trucks, and a slightly better ride.
dtkprowler
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Thanks for all of the input and insights! Really do appreciate it. I am very blessed to WFH and live in the middle of nowhere and go to town very seldom. I'll keep the '17 for sure, but want something fun and cool to work on and drive around/take my kids to get snowcones/etc. I know I am fantasizing it up and making it cooler than it would actually be, but a guy can dream can't he?! lol

But for real, I really do appreciate everyone's suggestions and insights. You guys are awesome!
Tumble Weed
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I drive an old chevy. It took me 4 years to go through all of the systems to get it where I want it.

About the time I get it lined out, something breaks, and I started with a nice ride.

My advice is to go ahead and spend 20k to 30k and buy something that has already been restored. You will still have to work on it, but it is much easier.

My A/C control switch just went out again. You can't buy a new one, so I bought the last one off of Ebay and it just lasted a couple of years. There are tons of parts out there, but a few small parts will nag you to death. The A/C control switch is my Achillies heel.

My advice is to find a store that sells ethanol free fuel. It is all that I will run in my truck.

Don't expect an automotive repair shop to be able to work on one. Every mechanic that knows what they are doing has aged out.

As for new cars, I absolutely hate them.
f2foxes2001
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If you were to go with an OBS, I would absolutely convert it to fuel injection to give you a greater degree of reliability. As someone else said, ethanol fuels are going to be a problem as well. You'll need run non-ethanol fuel. with that, I'd swap in new tank, fuel pump and new fuel lines. Just my $0.02.
txyaloo
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Tumble Weed said:

My A/C control switch just went out again. You can't buy a new one, so I bought the last one off of Ebay and it just lasted a couple of years. There are tons of parts out there, but a few small parts will nag you to death. The A/C control switch is my Achillies heel.

What year is it that you can't find that? The square body, GMT400 and 800 AC controls are reproduced (or new thru AC Delco) - even the 1yr only 1995 controls
Tumble Weed
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1975 C10.

Please let me know where I can find one besides Ebay. Any help is greatly appreciated!

ETA: I found one on LMC Truck, but please let me know if you have other sources.
Jack Boyett
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When my '99 F250 crapped out at 330k, I went to an '84 K30. It's doable and way cheaper than buying new. You'll need a spare vehicle but it's not that bad to keep an old truck running.
Rattler12
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Tumble Weed said:

1975 C10.

Please let me know where I can find one besides Ebay. Any help is greatly appreciated!

ETA: I found one on LMC Truck, but please let me know if you have other sources.

If they are still up and running The Filling Station in Lebanon, OR........ www.fillingstation.com

maybe Jim Carter truck although I think they go from 1934 to 1972

CS91Ag
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Have a 95 Chevy 1500 for my Aggie. We do have to work on it fairly regularly but it runs well and it's usually pretty easy to work on. Haven't had any transmission issue yet. Blew the intake manifold gasket which was 30 years old. Took the manifold off and cleaned it up and replace the gaskets and was pretty straightforward. Runs great. Need to rebuild the throttle body because the gaskets are leaking and some minor non mechanical things but other than the 12-15 MPG it's super cheap to operated.
Buck Turgidson
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You might get an older truck that is not as old as you are talking about in the OP. Maybe a post 2000 truck with moderate miles but still with airbags and antilock brakes. There is lots of info on line about the sweet spot year models and engines for different truck brands.
Corps_Ag12
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A good sweet spot would be a 2003-2006 Silverado/Sierra 1500/2500.
TdoubleH
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I have a 1997 F250 7.3 PSD. I did the same thing you talk about coming out of a 2016 F250. Haven't looked back. My only complaint is just the much rougher ride as roads are terrible and she's a solid piece of machinery.

Definitely have replaced wear and tear parts at inopportune times but nothing that stranded me for days or weeks without a vehicle. Major thing was a rebuild on the transmission but that was chump change in comparison. Just clocked 230k miles. Almost half way to retirement.



txyaloo
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Tumble Weed said:

1975 C10.

Please let me know where I can find one besides Ebay. Any help is greatly appreciated!

ETA: I found one on LMC Truck, but please let me know if you have other sources.

Classic has them too. You should be able to find some more options using the part number classic provides

heat/ac

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/k5blazer/parts/TL3102.html

heat only

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/k5blazer/parts/TL3101.html
Tx95Ag
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Corps_Ag12 said:

A good sweet spot would be a 2003-2006 Silverado/Sierra 1500/2500.

I had an 02 Silverado with 5.3. I would absolutely still be driving it if it had not been totaled. This is the range I would be looking at, late 90's to maybe 2010 at the latest. Fuel injected, anti-lock brakes and no other frills.
kyledr04
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Yep those are the best years. My granny has an 06 gmc with only 70k. I drove it a few weeks ago.
TSUAggie
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A 2017 F-150 is relatively easy to work on and is probably one of the most reliable pickups you could own - if you have the coyote V-8. The 15-17 F-150s with the 5.0 are nearly bulletproof if you do your basic pm and use quality oil & filters.
txyaloo
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TSUAggie said:

A 2017 F-150 is relatively easy to work on and is probably one of the most reliable pickups you could own - if you have the coyote V-8. The 15-17 F-150s with the 5.0 are nearly bulletproof if you do your basic pm and use quality oil & filters.

Are 2017s considered old trucks now? (Time marches on )

Most any truck made after 2008 is going to have multiple modules that have to be programmed with a dealer scan tool to replace. I think those F150s have 5-6. You also have computers controlling everything over multiple data networks on that vintage which really defeats the purpose of buying an "old" truck.

I think a truck is "old" if the window and lock switches are directly wired to power and not controlled by a BCM or data network. If you have window issues with a BCM involved, you need to figure out if the issue is the switch, motor, wiring, BCM, or a down data network. That's a lot more to troubleshoot compared to just a switch and motor.
Tim Weaver
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Stay newer than 1996 or thereabouts. That should give you OBD2 which is super helpful when diagnosing issues. Starting around 2006-7 is when things started to get crazy. A 2000 Ford or Chevy is still pretty easy to work on, yet has most everything you need to feel "modern".

I also suggest a 7.3 PSD. Thats a solid choice. Also the GMT800 Chevy's, as they'll have the first generation of LS motor.


Save that money that you would normally spend on a car payment and save it for the eventual transmission rebuild or paint job you'll need. I'd also say its worth it to make the interior as nice as possible. Sound deadening, insulation, good AC, Bluetooth stereo, comfy seats...




BTW here's my daily....
Corps_Ag12
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AG
Good point, I had issues with the BCM on my 2006 Silverado back in the day.

If I had the time/funds to build it I'd like to get a GMT400 2500 crew cab with a 12v Cummins swap and a probably a manual transmission.
Burdizzo
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I took over someone else's project a few years ago. 1978 Jeep CJ5. Someone started disassembling it and then left the chat. I got it for cheap. I could have finished parting it out and made money, but the plan was to do it with my teenage son who will be driving next years. That is still the plan.

That said old project vehicles are not for the faint of heart. If they tell you most of the parts are there, don't believe them. They aren't. The parts that are there may or may not be reusable. If you have a schedule in mind, triple it. If you have a budget, add another zero.

This reminds me I need to update my chronicle of the Jeep project.
TSUAggie
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I don't consider 2017 "old". My point is that an older vehicle is going to require constant maintenance and replacement of items that aren't your typical wear & tear parts. You're not going to be replacing modules on a 2017 vehicle. If you are, you got a vehicle that was totaled and salvaged, or an absolute piece of crap. In most cases, you will be replacing water pumps, hoses, starters, alternators, etc. On an early 2000s vehicle, you've got all the suspension parts, cab mounts, engine mounts, motors, transmissions, wheel bearings and hubs, axle bearings & seals, brake components, a/c components, door seals, hoses and all the other fit & finish type stuff that will need to be replaced at some point. The OP stated he is not mechanically inclined, so I don't think it's wise for him to own and daily drive a truck that is older.
txyaloo
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AG
TSUAggie said:

I don't consider 2017 "old". My point is that an older vehicle is going to require constant maintenance and replacement of items that aren't your typical wear & tear parts. You're not going to be replacing modules on a 2017 vehicle. If you are, you got a vehicle that was totaled and salvaged, or an absolute piece of crap. In most cases, you will be replacing water pumps, hoses, starters, alternators, etc. On an early 2000s vehicle, you've got all the suspension parts, cab mounts, engine mounts, motors, transmissions, wheel bearings and hubs, axle bearings & seals, brake components, a/c components, door seals, hoses and all the other fit & finish type stuff that will need to be replaced at some point. The OP stated he is not mechanically inclined, so I don't think it's wise for him to own and daily drive a truck that is older.

OP said they wanted something they can work on. Sounds like they want to become more mechanically inclined and work on their own stuff.

I've seen plenty of modules go out on newer vintage cars that require replacement. It isn't that uncommon. I just replaced a drivers door module on a 2006 Silverado.

I've brought back to life a handful of old rigs. You'll spend several thousand dollars and many hours or labor to replace the parts you called out, but once the common issues and deferred maintenance are addressed, using quality parts, you're good to go. Remember, parts are less expensive on these cars. A 4L60 rebuild is $1500. A 2017 F150 6-speed costs $5k to rebuild.

It's a trade off. I have a few cars of this vintage and a few newer ones. All of the trucks drive about the same to me. The factory tech is dated, but nearly any useful tech in a new car can be added to an old one. I prefer doing maintenance and repairs on the 90s to early 2000s stuff than most cars built after 2008.
Tim Weaver
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txyaloo said:

I prefer doing maintenance and repairs on the 90s to early 2000s stuff than most cars built after 2008.


Me too. New enough to feel modern, yet old enough to be able to work on it.
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