F150 - 10R80 talk

674 Views | 9 Replies | Last: 12 hrs ago by P.H. Dexippus
codeman
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I'm coming up on 40k miles and plan to swap the 8 or so quarts of fluid that I've read will be required if extracting w/o dropping pan. When it comes to checking the level, my question is when? I've read to check it at "operating" temp, and I've also read to check it between 200 and 210deg. To me, that is two different conditions. Checking the level shouldn't be an issue if I'm putting back in what I take out, but I've learned on this forum that sometimes the level isn't correct from the factory. So checking level will give me the peace of mind.

My model is the STX so I don't have the digital temp gauge, only the analog. I recently added an SCT tuner, which conveniently monitors a lot of engine sensors, transmission temperature is one of them. I can drive around for an hour and still only be at 175deg, which should be "operating" temperature. What can I do to get the temp higher if I need to check the level at 200deg?
P.H. Dexippus
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AG
I only comment to say that I doubt you get 8 quarts out from a drain and fill. Likely closer to 3L in my experience.
aggieforester05
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AG
I got out about 5 quarts before I dropped the pan and about another quart after. They say you can drop the valve body and get another 2 or 3 out, but I was going to have to start removing exhaust to drop the pan more than a few inches. I wiped out the inside of the pan the best I could, replaced the filter/seal, and then reused the original gasket (because I couldn't get it off without cutting, which meant I couldn't get a new one on).

For checking the level, yes they tell you to get it up over 200 degrees. I've got a Raptor tuned to about 500hp/600tq that weighs 6K pounds and has 35" tires. No matter how bad I've beat on it or even pulling trailers in the Texas summer it's never sniffed 200 degrees. They say you can brake boost and spike the temp, but it's risky because it can spike and overheat really quick. I went out and drove it hard, then did a very brief brake boost right before I got back to my house and it was at 192. The dipstick level was halfway between A and B (which those markings didn't match up with the instructions, but whatever), and it was about the same as when I first checked it before the drain. So I went with it and it's done well the last 3K miles. It's a little moody like always, but smooth in normal mode, most of the time.

The best thing I ever did was get the Goosetune TCU map, made a world of difference in shifting. The factory transmission programming has to be some of the worst OEM programming in automotive history.
Ikanizer
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AG
If you are going the "pump out as much as possible" route then all you have to do is measure precisely how much you remove and replace that exact volume. I got a 5 qts 7 oz the first time, put 500 miles on the truck and got 5 qts 9 oz the second time. Replace with OEM fluid from the dealer. No additives.
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Drain and fill, approx 4-5 quarts, measure and replace what you pulled out, check level. And drive it, and at the next engine oil change, drain and fill it again.

I have been buying Triax ULV and found it to be very good and less expensive than Motorcraft. Also the oil nerds seem to like it more than MC after reading the specs. I like adding lube guard platinum to the fluid as well.

You can see transmission fluid temp in engineering mode in the center display of the cluster.

To enter the F-150 Engineering Test Mode, hold the OK button on the left side of the steering wheel for at least five seconds, then turn the truck on while still holding the button. Then you can scroll down to TFT.
pnut02
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AG
Do you find the transmission plug is close to the exhaust (esp on the pboost)? Getting the fluid up to temp also means the exhaust is up to temp :-) Any tips?
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
Yes. I usually stick a welding glove, against the exhaust, and have an extremely long ratcheting wrench. Once I get the fluid level right, the first time, because I find they are low from the factory, the following times, I usually just replace what I remove.
pnut02
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AG
Thanks. Do you have an example of the ratcheting wrench?
1agswitchin4lanes
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AG
pnut02 said:

Thanks. Do you have an example of the ratcheting wrench?



P.H. Dexippus
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AG
You can also use an flexible socket wrench
https://www.homedepot.com/p/KING-3-8-in-DR-Flex-Head-Socket-Ratchet-CR-V-1479-0/331768854
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