Day 8 - Monday, May 19th 2025 - Rahima, Juaymah, Qatif and the Gold Souks in DammamWhen you make these jumps between countries that are a few time zones apart, if you're moving east, you're bringing an ability to stay up later and in this case, being kind of emotionally wound up too, I couldn't get to bed, thus slept in later than I wanted.
For the hometown portion of my trip, this is all completely unscripted. I had a few objectives I wanted to make sure that I did so I prioritized those first - such as the baseball field at Camp 9. Once several of my childhood friends who I keep in touch with on FB found out I was really there, many of them wanted pictures of their old houses. What was kind of funny is that almost all of us remembered exactly where our houses were, street names and addresses but, most of us weren't ready to see what the current residents had done with them - 40 years later.
My goals for this day were to hit Rahima, Juaymah, Qatif and the Gold Souks in Dammam, I figured I better get a good lunch and make sure I brought plenty of fluids with me on the trip for the day. So, I went over to the Applebees in Al Huwaylat.
I had a Smash Burger off the lunch special menu while seated at the Bar in Single Men's section. There was a separate entrance for Families. The bar area was decked out just like any other sports bar except that obviously they didn't have any alcohol. Most of their memorabilia was all soccer including some from the Saudi soccer league where Cristiano Ronaldo plays for the Al Nassr club. Of course they had Man U, Liverpool, etc.
One thing I'll say is that I was pretty cautious about taking pictures in public as historically that has been frowned upon. And I was especially cautious to not take any pictures with Saudi women in them. Point here is that I do have some pictures I can go back and reference but I didn't photograph everything on a trip the way I normally do.
After lunch, I got some drinks at a filling station where gas was about $2.20/gallon. One thing I figured out accidentally is this magic math:
The Saudi Riyal is pegged to the US Dollar at 3.75 SAR per USD. The conversion from liters to gallons is about 3.8 liters per gallon. Thus... the price per liter in Saudi Riyals is approximately the same as the price per gallon in US Dollars. Neat, huh?
Growing up in the desert, I have somewhat of a fear of getting lost in the desert and dying from dehydration. Kind of like how the EV crowd refers to those of us who fear running out of gas as having "range anxiety". Using those terms, I have "dying from dehydration after getting lost in the desert anxiety". Or, you could also say that there is a man vs. nature element of living in a desert so make sure you've protected yourself as much as you can.
I guess this would be a good time to mention the kind of heat we're talking about. The mornings were around 44 - 46 degrees Celsius by the time I got to my car. That's 111F to 115F by 10 am and it's only mid-May. Afternoons were usually 47C - 48C or 117F - 118F. The heat was not Texas style, it was more Arizona / California High Desert / Nevada type. It felt like you were in an oven.
So, back on the road, using Google Maps versus my memory. Google Maps was helpful with connecting main roads and things but some of the places I wanted to go weren't really on the map per se. I drive past the big desalination plant which supplies water via pipeline to Riyadh and then I turn off towards Ras Tanura.
It's funny because they have built a more direct highway to Rahima but, I stayed on the old road which is now more of a plant service road. That's the road where in the late 1970s, it was not uncommon to see Mercedes dump trucks driving 4 abreast in the same direction on a two lane road. These days, the driving was a little more civilized.
RahimaI got to what used to be Rahima Family Camp where we lived in a single wide trailer during 1977-1978. All the trailers are long gone and the roads are slowly being reclaimed by the desert but, the chain link fence around the "compound" survives and the things they didn't get rid of are the foundation for the swimming pool and surprisingly, a tennis court. It's just sort of slowly rotting concrete. Faded green in the case of the tennis court.
That compound housed American, British and French workers and one of our fun activities was to go to the beach either at the Aramco Najmah compound if you could get in (it was nice) or, just drive along the dirt/sand road until we found a spot near the water where we could do beach stuff.
JuaymahThat area has all been developed now and you can use Google Maps to search for Ras Tanura Beach and there are even some pictures posted. It's a very long developed beach area / Corniche now. Runs for almost 3 miles, complete with restaurants and a mosque (or maybe 2).
Anyway, this is all still inside of the no photography zone around Aramco Ras Tanura. But, I drove to the end of the beach and I saw what I came to see at Al Juaymah. That is, the longest pier in the world.
My father was the General Superintendent on the project for Fluor. If you use the measuring tool on Google Maps, you can see that the Juaymah LPG Terminal is at the end of a 6 mile long trestle.
Here is Aramco's description of it which is not part of the realm of knowledge for Google, Grok, etc.
https://www.aramco.com/-/media/downloads/working-with-us/ports-and-terminals-july-2025/05--ras-tanura-port--juaymah-ngl-compressed.pdfNow why did they need to build a terminal 6 miles out into the Gulf? The answer is that the Gulf between Iran and Saudi Arabia is very shallow - around 200 feet at its deepest point. So that's how far they had to go out to sea to draw enough water for those types of ships to dock.
Even when we used to take Dhow trips from Jubail out to Jurayd Island - 22 miles offshore, the water out there was only about 50 feet deep.
Finished up with the beach at Ras Tanura and headed south towards Qatif. At the beach, I saw a group of about 10 guys playing soccer and 1 or 2 families at the beach. The infrastructure is there but, there weren't any people on a hot afternoon in May.
Qatif and Tarout IslandNext objective is to visit the old Turkish Fort on Tarout Island and also to just kind of get a look at Qatif.
Qatif is the one town in Saudi Arabia where the Shi'ites are the majority and coincidentally it is the town where there were some protests in 2012 back during the tail end of the so-called "Arab Spring" which led to one of the protesters getting killed. A classic FAFO moment which the media jumped all over.
Driving there I figured out that attempting to drive in Saudi Arabia is not for the faint of heart. There were some places that had roundabouts or modern traffic signals and there were other intersections which had no control measures at all and people just kind of went for it.
I did learn how to drive initially in Saudi Arabia so I know it was going to be crazy but not India level insanity. I definitely learned the meaning of "Full Send, No Half Send". There were a number of times where I just had to go for it and hope that it all worked out. Especially when trying to make any left turns. Eventually, where possible, I would just keep making right turns until I got back to heading in the direction I wanted to but even this strategy didn't always work out.
Once I arrived at the Tarout Castle, I was massively disappointed because I found out that it was under renovations and would be re-opening later this year. I still managed to grab some pictures over the construction fencing.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarout_CastleLike I mentioned earlier, this portion of the trip was completely unscripted. Had I done some homework, I would have known about the renovations. But, I'll also say that it is difficult to find English language tourist type information but the Visit Saudi web site and app do help.
One really funny thing I saw at Tarout Castle was four teenage Saudi boys on 20" BMX bikes riding past the Fort. I thought, hey, 40 years ago, that was me and my friends on our Schwinn, Diamondback, Redline, GT, Hutch and Kuwahara bikes. Glad to see these kids were keeping it real and they also didn't care that the air temperature was still over 110F. Like always, I got a few stares in my direction. They were definitely not used to seeing tall blond headed guys rolling down their streets.
On the way towards Dammam, I saw one hilarious sight. There was a Dunkin Donuts right next to a Tim Hortons. For my money, those are essentially the same place.
DammamAs I got into Dammam, it was approaching dusk and I heard the evening call to prayer right as I parked near the Gold Souks. The Gold Souks happen to be right next to the big King Fahd Mosque so of course everything was Closed for Prayer when I arrived.
There were signs posted indicating that you needed to pay to park via an App on your phone. I got as far as the QR Code and got hung up there. What was very interesting is that as I was obviously fooling around with trying figure out how to pay to park, I had 3 different Saudi men tell me to NOT pay. The third guy spoke English well enough to tell me that the other two guys had been telling me to not pay.
According to the sign we were still within the time period for paying to park so I couldn't decide if it was some sort of payment holiday I didn't know about, or, if the locals had all just collectively decided to NOT pay to park.
When the gold shops re-opened after prayer, I searched around for a 1 gram to 5 gram "biscuit" with the classic Saudi crossed swords and palm tree logo. I couldn't find one but I found a 2.5g one with a palm tree and decided that was close enough.
When I went to pay, I think it was about 900 Saudi Riyals but, I only had about 500 or so on me. I also had Euros and USD on me so I asked the Saudi shop owner if he would take Euro or USD. What struck me as funny was that he didn't want anything to do with Euro but he gladly took the USD. So I finished paying with a combination of Benjamin Franklins and some Riyals.
After that, I was on the prowl for a 2m long USB cable that I needed to run my GoPro camera because Toyota decided to put the cigarette lighter port inside the center console of my Toyota Corolla rental car.
I cruised the Souks which appeared to be selling lots of electronics, phone cases and luggage. Nearby there were souks selling the full thobe, ghuttra and iqal. I didn't realize how fashionable thobes and ghuttras have gotten. There were even designer labels on some of the ghuttras. The ghuttra is the red/white checked head covering for regular folks - rich banker types wear white.
One of the young men working in one of the shops asks me what I'm looking for and he assures me that his shop has just what I need if I'll follow him down the alley. Everything is pretty well lit and there are lots of shops open late at night so I follow the guy. Turns out he didn't have what I needed but... he left for about 10 minutes and returned with exactly what I needed for 40 SAR.
I was fumbling around in my wallet, trying to figure out how much money I had and he decided that my haggling brought the price down to 30 Riyals. I was kind of impressed that I had inadvertently haggled for price, something which we used to do all the time.
Dinner in Jubail and back to the hotelAt this point, I was ready to get some dinner and head home. I navigated my way out of Dammam and back to the main highway headed north. As I arrived in Jubail, I decided to go to the first fast food restaurant we ever had - Hardees.
I had a burger and fries for dinner at Hardees and then headed back to the hotel. I thought the dining room at Hardees was kind of small until I realized that I was in the Single Men's section. The Family section was much larger but I couldn't see in there from where I was so I don't know how big it was. Anyway, the burger and fries at Hardees weren't as special as I thought they were at age 14 when that was the only game in town.
Got back to the hotel just in time to see a flare upset that was massive buring at one of the Petrochemical plants. It was a really big flame.
I re-sent an Email to my old school requesting a tour.
And probably most importantly, I finally figured out how to get my tickets loaded on my phone for the Guns and Roses Concert on Friday in Riyadh.