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Increasing your deductibles...

2,638 Views | 27 Replies | Last: 3 days ago by Jason_Roofer
Red Pear Felipe
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I just received my homeowner's policy renewal from Liere Insurance and saw a 26% YOY increase on my premium. I called them up and asked them to see what my policy premium would be at if I were to increase my deductibles. Low and behold, I was able to get it just under $1800 for this coming year.

2% on all other perils
5% on wind/hail

I know, cool story bro...but if you're able to cover the deductible, it's not a bad way to save some money on your insurance.
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Furlock Bones
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It's all becoming pure insanity.
water turkey
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Same, it's going to have to be catastrophic for me to be able to file a claim at this point….
rlb28
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I know this is real estate, but increase your vehicle deductibles also. I typically wouldn't make a claim on anything less than $1,000. I'd pay that out of pocket. So I went to $2,500 and saved some jack.
Diggity
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what a deal, pay the insurance company thousands of dollars to cover fire & lightning. Something that occurs in about 1 in 500 homes each year.
Ducks4brkfast
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Yes. It's the first thing I tell an insurance agent. Quote me with max deductibles. The savings in premiums over the years have more than paid for themselves.
Heineken-Ashi
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Increased my deductible last year and had bad damage from the Houston derecho to roof and siding. Was not fun paying the deductible.

But either way, you're paying way too much. If you live somewhere away from the coasts, tornado alley, wildfire alley, or hail alley, or just want to chance your luck, this can work and save you money. It already cost me multiple years of the higher premium.
JP76
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How much are you saving a year by self insuring your next roof replacement ?
SnowboardAg
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I really want private high deductible insurance. Forget all these large advertising outfits.
Jason_Roofer
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According to the agents I work with directly, The roof is the most claimed item. I carry a high deductible. I would set deductibles as high as you can possibly be comfortable with. I view insurance as a thing for catastrophic damage. In my opinion, I don't have insurance so I can replace my roof every 5-10 years. I have insurance in case it all burns to the ground.

Besides all of this, if you are insuring with the roof being your primary concern, then see about upgrading to metal to reduce your exposure. Also, keep in mind that carriers are getting very tight with roof claims. I have no less than 5-10 every year that go through the appraisal process to force a carrier to pay a claim they should have done on their own. It's time consuming, costs me a little more, and cost the carrier a hell of a lot more. My point is that there is a decent chance you may have to kick and scream to get your roof replaced if it's needed so keep that in mind if you want a low deductible thinking you'll make it up on the roof. You might not.
Red Pear Felipe
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My auto coverage is also set for $1000 deductible on my vehicles.
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Kenneth_2003
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I would LOVE a policy that only covers the roof if the house burns out from underneath it.
Red Pear Felipe
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So to help us put it into numbers, what's the average cost of a roof replacement on a 2,000 sq ft home? Let's say you're using architectural shingles and you don't have to replace a sheet of plywood on the house.

So by choosing to go with a higher deductible, how many years of savings would be needed to replace the roof? This is also assuming insurance premiums don't increase which we all know is bs.
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Jason_Roofer
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Before I can make that calculation, we need to know how much annual premiums are for a house like below valued at $375,000.

1%, 2%, 5% deductible premium costs will be needed and I don't have that info. How much did you save by going to the higher deductible?



First, there is no 'average' price of a roof. It's like asking you what is the 'average' price of a house. We need more details.

So, let's use this as an example:



2800 square feet of living space per Zillow. House built in 1999.

Several things to note on this. We have single story and two story roof requirements. We have porches front and back requiring special attention to low slope techniques, and we have pitches that add to the cost.



The price of this roof will come in around $18,000. This is for a good quality Class 3 architectural shingle with modern synthetic underlayment, and accounting for low slope materials to satisfy install requirements, replace all accessories and flash accordingly.

Deductible on this one is $7500. Based on what I know about this neighborhood, that is a 2% deductible.

So....

Deductibles on a house valued at $375,000:

1% = $3750
2% = $7500
5% = $18,750

Most people I roof, based on their premium, have paid for their roof many times over. Think about that. You have sent enough money to your carrier to reroof your own house several times. You can bet your sweet tail that when lightning hits my home or hail destroys something, I am claiming that every single day of the week and I will max that claim out to recoup my costs.

What you need to think about is how much MORE you are paying every year to keep that 1% or even 2% deductible, how many times you have roofed your house due to age or storm damage, and see if it makes sense.

For me, on that house, I would keep a 5% deductible if I could swing it. That would be the minimum. If I could get a higher percent deductible, I would absolutely do it. I can eat an $18,000 roof without noticing it and if I have saved that much from the reduced deductible every 5 years, then you've saved it anyway and that makes sense.

When you get insurance coverage, make SURE your house is properly appraised. Can the customer above rebuild that house for $375,000? I don't know, maybe, but it might be close or undervalued. Then, don't insure so your deductible is cheap and you can get a roof covered. Insure your house as high as possible that you can afford in case the whole thing is catastrophically destroyed or you have a seriously large repair. Figure your odds, don't let fear and emotion work into the equation. I would go for a 5% deductible on the house above if I could. I am plenty comfortable covering that, and if I SAVED the money I would have spent on the 1% deductible, then I have paid for my own roof anyway.

The house above has the original roof. In 26 years of insurance coverage and premium payments, not once was a roof claim made.

****CAVEAT****
Some carriers are requiring re-roofs at 10 years for asphalt shingles. Not all, but some. This seems to bother people a lot, and it should as you may not need a roof at 10 years. However, if we use the math above, bullcrap insurance policies ignored, you've saved enough to cover that yourself still.
Red Pear Felipe
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Thanks for the informative response! Now seeing your signature, I'm glad your company does business in Austin. Do you do business with Owens Corning? One of my good buddies works for OC. Another question, I've been seeing a lot of advertisements on those metal roofs that look like shingles. What's your take on those type of roofs?
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Jason_Roofer
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Red Pear Felipe said:

Thanks for the informative response! Now seeing your signature, I'm glad your company does business in Austin. Do you do business with Owens Corning? One of my good buddies works for OC. Another question, I've been seeing a lot of advertisements on those metal roofs that look like shingles. What's your take on those type of roofs?

Yes, we do business with any manufacturer. Owens Corning was one of our product lines but we stopped our certification program with them last month. The quality of the shingle vs. the premium price they want for it just isn't there. Other brands offer discounts to allow us to remain competitive in pricing. Certainteed is what I would install on my home. It's a better shingle, also manufactured here in Texas, and our reps are more involved and responsive. We carried Platinum certification for Owens Corning. We have ShingleMaster Select for Certainteed, and MasterElite for GAF. We just added IKO and are Roofpro Craftsman Premier for them.

The certifications matter on extended warranties. You cannot offer a 10 or 25 year warranty on a Certainteed shingle if you aren't Select ShingleMaster, for instance.

Our product lines and main selling brands are dependent heavily on which companies work with us in terms of reps, pricing, etc. We want reps and support for customers if there are defects or issues.

My preference for roofing...

1.) Standing seam $$
2.) Asphalt Shingles $
3.) Stone coated steel $$$$
4.) Tile $$$$$

Standing seam, if allowed and you can afford it, is my preference. It's what I have on my own home. It has been through several golf ball sized hailstorms. No problem. Stone coated steel that looks like shingles has similar characteristics, but is 4x the price. It is a good product, it's just expensive.
JP76
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Red Pear Felipe said:

So to help us put it into numbers, what's the average cost of a roof replacement on a 2,000 sq ft home? Let's say you're using architectural shingles and you don't have to replace a sheet of plywood on the house.

So by choosing to go with a higher deductible, how many years of savings would be needed to replace the roof? This is also assuming insurance premiums don't increase which we all know is bs.



How much are you saving a year for 5% versus 2 % ?

$1000 ? $500 ? $2000 ?

At 5% you are basically self insuring the roof if the house is around 375k or more

So if the difference in deductible is $11,250, how many years will you have to be claim less to break even on 2% versus 5 % ?
Red Pear Felipe
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My previous deductibles were 1% all perils and 2% wind/hail and the premium was going to be $2500. At my current of 2% all perils and 5% wind/hail, I'm now expected to pay $1800 for a savings of $700 annually.

My breakeven point would be 14 years.
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JP76
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How old is the existing roof now ?


Like Jason mentioned a lot of carriers will not insure an asphalt roof over 10 years old in Texas. This is fine as long as you stay with your carrier but if your try to price shop you can run into that issue. I had this happened when my roof was over 10 and thankfully It got hail damage because i could not find a carrier to write a new policy until it was replaced.




Red Pear Felipe
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11 years old
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PDEMDHC
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We just moved to Prosper, and we were able to get our annual insurance down 45% by taking the deductible from 1% to 2% on hail.

Note that the price of insurance is up 300% over the past few years prior to the change, but it was nice to get that deduction. Roof is 1 year old and replaced by prior owners so I know that played a big part.
MRB10
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I did this math last year in a north Dallas suburb.

$750k value
2% deductible - $6,500 premium
5% deductible - $3,600 premium

Roof estimate is right at $30k for asphalt shingles.

I took the $2,900/yr savings as I was only getting $15k worth of coverage with 2% at the end of the day. The last big hail storm was 2018 and the 5 year break even seemed like a decent bet.
Diggity
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How big is that house? $30K seems like a lot.
MRB10
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3,700ft2 air conditioned
Two story
the most cool guy
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Do yourself a favor and get rid of Liere.
txaggie_08
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Why?
rilloaggie
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I want to pick your brain re: appraised value as it relates to the land vs the improvement. Might be a derail but staff can delete if needed. I raised my deductible this past year and my agent(friend of mine) recommended raising the value. I agreed to some extent due to rising replacement costs but he seemed to think that the property needed to be valued at market value. I argued that the house replacement cost should be somewhat standard regardless of location. ie, a 2,000SF house like mine is valued around $400,000. Same house in Spring Branch ISD might cost $1,000,000 and one in a worse part of town like Sharpstown might be $275,000; however, if you are building the same new house in any of these locations, you shouldn't see that big of a swing in actual construction costs.

I guess I say all that to ask are you folks on here insuring for the cost of replacement or the purchase price/market value? It would seem to me that on the high end you'd be significantly over insuring and the inverse on the lower end of the market.
Jason_Roofer
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This is definitely a question for the insurance pros here and a good one at that.

I consider the odds of what could happen and how much financial exposure I want to carry.

Personally, I would try to determine how much rebuild cost is, and then opt for the cheapest RCV I could find where I could offset the difference. Adjust your perils accordingly. For instance, if you determine your house would take 500,000 to rebuild from the ground up, but you could absorb 200,000 on your own, I would insure for 300,000. I would be comfortable with that exposure vs. the risk. Some people may find that they are already in this situation without really knowing it. USAA had a few big lawsuits where people were straight up underinsured and they found out they needed to eat hundreds of thousands of dollars themselves to cover it a catastrophic loss.
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