Cross posted on OB: We have a rental property that has these kind of hinges on the cabinets throughout the house.

Example:


We really need to replace these. First, what is this type of hinge called? For a specific few that are isolated, we went with more "standard" hinges; however the part to mount on the back of the cabinet is ~3/8" too wide. For reference, this is the hinge installed in place of the original above.


This hinge is a Liberty H01010C


Any input or recommendations are appreciated.

That's probably going to hard to find in stock, but any local hardware store should be able to order some for you, also I posted a pic on the OB of the one I found on Amazon....

This is fantastic! Thank you. We have wanted to get away from the pivots forever, but have not been able to figure out a hinge to replace it with without a ton of fiddling. We want to go more with semi concealed, as you see we are attempting. Is there a hinge, either specific or style you recommend? We are ok with plugging previous holes and paint, just don't want to have to do woodworking on every cabinet door.

sawemoffshort07 said:

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This is fantastic! Thank you. We have wanted to get away from the pivots forever, but have not been able to figure out a hinge to replace it with without a ton of fiddling. We want to go more with semi concealed, as you see we are attempting. Is there a hinge, either specific or style you recommend? We are ok with plugging previous holes and paint, just don't want to have to do woodworking on every cabinet door.

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You have two different types of doors in your pics, one with a square edge, one with a B-lip. Without doing mid level woodworking, you will need two different types of hinges. They will both be called 'semi-concealed', but they will be slightly different.

The one thing that will be different, is the extra step on the back plate. There will not be an extra step on the square edge door. This door will sit proud of the face of the cabinet by the thickness of the door. For the B-lip door, the back plate will have an extra step so it will fit into the rabbet that surrounds the back edge of the door and then this style door will sit partially within the cabinet's opening.

The other parameters for the hinge selection can likely be the same; the style of the knuckle (none, ball, finial, other), the color/metal (polished chrome, brass, burnished brass, black, etc), and if you want it free swinging or spring loaded. (If you do free swinging, you will need some sort of magnetic catch to keep the door closed. If you go with spring loaded, you will just need felt or rubber bumpers.) I don't know if these doors you have pictured are from cabinetry within the same room? If so, even though you will need two different types of hinges, you will want the finish and knuckle to match.

Matching the two different types of hinges should be easy. I have not worked with these type of hinges in a long time so not quite sure of availability, but this type of hinge has been around for many decades. Most are likely made in China, so quality is not going to vary from one to another. Rockler is a good source. I get my hardware from Richelieu, it is a specialty supplier that does not sell to the public, trade only. You can still go on their website though to see the many different types, very easy to navigate, but you won't see prices.

Let me know any other questions.

1988PA-Aggie, very much appreciated. I understand there are two different doors. I am not trying to be difficult; however, is there any way you could link an example of what would work for each door type? Again, very much appreciate your help and this is many many years in the making.

top one- Overlay pivot cabinet hinge


Overlay Pivot Hinge | HardwareSource

Thanks; is there also a semi concealed style that would work? Not a big fan of the pivot style.

how wide is that lip?

And how much does it overlap the frame?

The lip on the back is 1" before it gets to the panel that is offset. In a perfect world, that nickel hinge in the second picture was 1" wide instead of 1.25", would be what we are looking for.

RELIABILT 200-Degree 1/2-in Overlay 1/2-in Inset Semi-wrap Surface Self-closing Satin Nickel Cabinet Hinge, 1 Pair (2-Pieces) 32133TNXLG-BL at Lowes.com

Maybe?

Very possible, thank you

Saw Em, here is the type of hinge that will work. But you have to do a bit of work.

https://www.richelieu.com/us/en/category/hinges-slides-and-opening-systems/hinges-and-accessories/face-frame-hinges/face-frame-hinges/semi-concealed-self-closing-hinge-138/1007962/sku-BP13826

This type has that extra step in it.

A problem you may run into with one of the previous hinges linked is that because your 'lip' is so wide, 1" (which is oddly wide), is that you need to notch the panel to fit the hinge back plate, which is what you have pictured in your original post, but then you need really short screws, probably 3/8" or less? Not a lot of grab.

Typically the lip (or rabbet) is 3/8" thick and 3/8" to 1/2" wide. The hinge I linked will probably work, but you may need to glue a 1/2" wide x 3/8" piece of wood onto the back lip just where the hinge will be in order to have the hinge seat properly into the rabbet edge. In cabinetry probably 90% of all hinges made are for 3/4" thick doors.

I don't know what your skill set is, but this stuff is very finicky. Don't think that this is cabinet 101, this is third level cabinet stuff, not the easiest. Let me know if I am steering down a wrong path. It's just a bit tough for me to guide you long distance not having the doors in my hands.

Let me know how we are doing in getting closer to a solution.

Thank you. I am going to get by the property to get some measurements. Not that I do not trust yall, but to have hard data. Widths, lip, thickness, overlay, etc. to be able to dig in a bit more.

Definitely DON'T trust me. I like to google things and help find things that might work, but I am by NO MEANS an expert in cabinetry.

Good luck with your project.

Some measurements:
Lip width: 1"
Recessed panel depth: 1/4"
Door Thickness without recessed panel: 3/4"
Overlay (door and cabinet): 3/4"

Thanks for the pic.

The goal is to replace the hinges, correct? With all respect, may I ask why? Are some not working well or are they ugly in addition to being painted over (I can agree with this, painted over hinges are a huge 'ick' to me) or are they mismatched? I am only asking to guide you to a solution with the desired goals while considering budget, time, and degree of difficulty.

Let me know, thanks.

Sorry for the delay, it got rowdy there for a while. I figured another picture and additional information may help.

Yes, the goal is to replace the hinges. They are original to at least purchase of the house in 05 and in various levels of worn out, broken, gunked up, not letting the door fully close, etc. Additionally, we think they are ugly in general and painted over is worse. They at least match and consistent through the house.

Ideal would be replace these pivot hinges with something like an overlay hinge that fits without having to woodwork the cabinet/ doors, paint is fine. Not looking to the European/no show and having to recess parts into the wood. Same as with the original overlay option picturd, would prefer not having to chisel out 3/8" wood to get them to fit/sit. Touch up paint and new screw holes are fine. This is a rental property and looking to address this in the week between tenants (7/24-8/1) in conjunction with everything else that goes into a turnaround.

Tried this hinge, that .08" is an issue

A sharp chisel would take care of that if it doesn't screw up your door alignment.

For sure, but 2x and like 40 cabinet doors. Dont really want to have to chisel out 80 times

sawemoffshort07 said:

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For sure, but 2x and like 40 cabinet doors. Dont really want to have to chisel out 80 times

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I am not a woodworker, but I would bet there is a router bit that could be set up to cut a small relief pocket in the door that the hinge could slide into.

Then you would just have to cut a slot and install the hinge. May be able to do it with a Dremel tool.



I think you change the bearing size so that you get the "H" depth you want.



Did I mention that I am NOT a woodworker? I could be way off and there could be a better way.

You may have to accept that a chisel 80x's over is the way to go. Unless you are very good with a router, can make an accurate and universal jig, and have the tooling (router, bit, clamps), a chisel should take you a few seconds per hinge....with a sharp chisel, not one you split some rocks with yesterday. (A little woodworker humor there.) If you don't have a good chisel, you can buy a well-sharpened 1/2" Marples, maybe Stanley for $20 or so.

We could start another thread on sharpening chisels, but a well-sharpened chisel would be able to pare the end grain off of a piece oak. So should easily be able to cut through your door edge.

Now, screws...if the 'leaf' of the hinge is attaching to the existing rabbet of the door, what is your thickness at that point? 3/8"? And do you have screws short enough that you don't poke through the front?

Or, is the hinge that you have in the pic made for a 3/4" thick door (since it has only one step in it), and therefore, you would not need to chisel, but glue a thin piece of material onto the rabbet to fur out and be flush with the back face of the door frame.

ITs a 3/4" door and a 3/4" hinge

sawemoffshort07 said:

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ITs a 3/4" door and a 3/4" hinge

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I went back to your original post and pic, yes, I see it is a 3/4" door then the back of the door has the extra thickness where the back of the panel protrudes. So screw length is not a problem.

Bad news...I still think the chisel is the way to go. Sorry.

That, or do an inset hinge, with a "shim" the same thickness as the inset

I am not sure if anyone is following this, or interested; however, I think we are going to try a knife hinge, below. After fairly exhaust searching, there does not seem to exist, at least that I have found, an overlay hinge, or semi-wrap hinge that will work as is. As mentioned, there would need to be chiseling. This is a rental property and have <1 week to turn the property around. We are a bit disillusioned with the pivot hinges, sure new ones that are not painted over may work better, but would prefer to stay away. After this exhaustive searching, it makes sense they went the pivot route, as its a/the option that can stay within the lip, utilizing the top and bottom in conjunction with the side lip, where there is not the restriction of 1". I do not have a strong preference of hinge being concealed or not, I did not like the projection of the pivot though. So this knife hinge looks like it should work and it is self closing, which is preferred since the current pivot hinges leave all the doors slightly ajar.